Time of Dahlia Flowering

Posted on March 5, 2009 @ 2:51 am
by Kenneth Carlson

It is not possible here to give more than a general outline of the principles underlying timing, but as an approximation it can be assumed that a burl is formed on a giant decorative approximately six weeks after stopping, provided the plant at the time is in a fit state to be stopped, as explained earlier in the chapter, and that it will take a further four weeks for this bud to expand to the maximum sized bloom.

Some of the branches are secured direct to these additional canes, whilst the rest are retained by making a tie right round the outside of the canes. In the case of the giant cactus and clecoratives provide a supporting cane for every stem.

This is however a rather expensive method if a large number of plants are grown, and some growers simply wire the rows of stakes together with stout galvanised wire, stayed at each end to keep the rows taut. Some branches are looped back to the main stake, others are looped to the wire, and an odd cane or two provided for those branches which would be damaged if forced back in this fashion. It is important in any case to ensure that no branch is forced too far out of position as it is likely that this will cause it to be unseated from its socket.

To prevent branches from being forced out of the socket by their own weight (this is particularly prevalent in branches developing low on the main stem), it is an excellent plan to insert short lengths of cane exactly parallel with each branch and to tie the branch to this support. This will give ample support until such time as the branch becomes long enough to be secured in the normal fashion to the main stake or wires.

Once the dahlias start to grow strongly the question of staking and tying will become of increasing importance. The central stake, unsupported, is seldom sufficient, unless very stout, when the developing branches may be simply looped back to it by soft string.

If, however, the strict application of this principle would mean that a stout shoot would be removed and a very weak or damaged shoot retained, it is good sense to vary a little from the automatic selection in such instances and retain the better of the pair. It might even be necessary to remove both shoots and retain growth lower down the plant, or even to retain two shoots developing at the same level. This procedure is only a guide.

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