For the same reason it is best to leave this de-branching until the side shoots have reached a reasonable length, say some 4 to 6 in. long, before attempting to remove surplus growth. At this stage it will be fairly obvious which shoots are suitable for retention and which are not. The surplus growth should be removed with a very sharp knife, cutting through the growth as closely as possible to the junction with the main stem. In addition, though not completely essential, it is as well to dust a little flowers of sulphur or hydrated lime on the cuts to prevent any possibility of infection entering the open wound.

It follows that it is advisable to take plants struck at different times if a wide variation in blooming period is required, and to pinch the tops out at varying times. This will ensure, not so much that a bloom on a particular plant will be ready at a certain date, but that blooms will be available at that date, rather than a big flush of blooms all within a few days of each other, which might he at a period when there is not a suitable show.

This is however a rather expensive method if a large number of plants are grown, and some growers simply wire the rows of stakes together with stout galvanised wire, stayed at each end to keep the rows taut. Some branches are looped back to the main stake, others are looped to the wire, and an odd cane or two provided for those branches which would be damaged if forced back in this fashion. It is important in any case to ensure that no branch is forced too far out of position as it is likely that this will cause it to be unseated from its socket.

The second is the removal of all pests. The dahlia is peculiarly susceptible to attack at this time; earwigs and slugs in particular will completely ruin a plant in a matter of days if allowed complete freedom. Slug bait should be used and the plant dusted or sprayed at intervals with Gamma B.H.C., or a similar insecticide. B.H.C. is recommended because this is also effective against aphides. There are a number of branded insecticides on the market containing this.

Although this may seem a great deal of trouble, it is better to take such precautions than to have the heartbreaking sight of a strong healthy branch broken off later in the season, particularly on a plant well thinned out for giant blooms of exhibition quality. For the same reason it is essential to tie in the branches as these develop, and this is a task that must never be neglected.

If, however, the strict application of this principle would mean that a stout shoot would be removed and a very weak or damaged shoot retained, it is good sense to vary a little from the automatic selection in such instances and retain the better of the pair. It might even be necessary to remove both shoots and retain growth lower down the plant, or even to retain two shoots developing at the same level. This procedure is only a guide.