Although it is invariably categorized Hybrid Teas, this variety is so vigorous that it would be better and more appropriately transferred to the shrub types. It has been grown widely as a windbreak hedge, and some years ago, when visiting a customer at Angmering in Sussex, I found a hedge backing directly on to the beach that was every bit of 10ft (3m) high, covered in bloom, and obviously cocking a snook at the salt-laden breezes! As you are asking for a barrier, this is how I suggest that you deal with this hedge from now on. As soon as the growth buds begin to swell next spring, I would prune back all the older stems very hard to sideways-pointing buds, ideally no more than 1 ft (0.3m) from ground level, leaving no more than three or four stems, and these reduce by about a half. The result of this will be most vigorous reaction, with strong stems being thrown up from low down. What you do with them depends on the kind and height of hedge you are looking for. You want a barrier, and presumably one with lots of blooms, so, as the vigorous stems grow tall and while they are still soft and pliable, bend them down and tie them together with stems from the adjacent plant so that they lay horizontal and looped.

A frequent cause for disappointment with containers exposed as this one will be is due to direct sunlight on the container sides, which heat up and become hot – you cannot expect roses, or any other plants, to grow with baked roots. One solution may be to use a metal or fibreglass container inside a timber or other attractive outer casing, in which case make sure there is an inch (2.5cm) or so clearance for ventilation and for heat to disperse.

Next spring, prune back the stems that were left last time, and from then on, pruning will consist basically of taking out the one oldest main stem each year. This is easier said than done, especially when some side shoots have shot up through the lacing. The way I always tackled the job was to look carefully at each base, decide which old and perhaps barky stem was for the chop – then reach under and cut it through with long handled loppers. That may take some courage, as there is then no going back – but it is the best way.

Perhaps the most frequent cause of trouble with all pot and container grown plants is that it is not generally realized that, as soon as a root ball becomes dry, it thinks it has become a duck’s back, and water poured on from the top runs off in just the same way, down the sides and out through the drainage holes, leaving the soil and roots as dry as ever.

Grown in open ground, this problem is not so likely to occur, and if you follow the reasoning contained in the chapters dealing with feeding and mulching, there is no reason why you should not derive a lot of enjoyment and satisfaction from growing miniatures. One salient fact you should always bear in mind is that these little roses may be reduced in size, but the pests and diseases are not and, relative to the tiny tots, it is like having greenfly as big as bumble bees!

The need to protect with insecticides and fungicides is therefore all the greater. Otherwise treat them as conventional bushes.